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Definitely at the top of overseas Singaporeans’ list of most-missed dishes. Laksa plays off smooth, rice noodles against rich, velvety gravy of coconut milk, spices, dried shrimp and chilli, with toppings of fresh prawns, cockles, and sliced fishcake. So entrenched is this Peranakan classic in local cuisine, that the Malay daun kesum leaves that garnish it have the English nickname – laksa leaf! 

Perhaps the most famous version was sold in the Katong (East Coast) area more than 50 years ago by a hawker nicknamed ‘Janggot’, who learnt how to cook laksa from Peranakan cooks – and who subsequently married the daughter of one of his Peranakan customers! In those days, street hawkers doled out laksa served in porcelain bowls from carts they pushed along the road. Currently, several Katong eateries tout their laksa as being closest to the original, but only one has registered the name “Katong Laksa” as a trademark.

Recommended

• Tong Jimian
  Not too rich, with very ‘drinkable’ gravy.
  #01-100 Golden Mile Food Centre, 505 Beach Road

• Sungei Road Laksa
  A very traditional style of Iaksa, the fragrant gravy is made with fresh coconut milk.
  #01-100, BIk 27 Jalan Berseh

• 328 Katong Laksa
  The Katong style of laksa has very thick, ‘coconutty’ gravy — aromatic and very filling.
  Branches at 216 and 51 East Coast Road

• Chatterbox
  Famous for its chicken rice, the Laksa isn't too bad either.
  333 Orchard Road, Meritus Mandarin Hotel, Telephone : (65) 6831 6291

• Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa
  #02-67 Hong Lim market & Food Centre. Block 531A Upper Cross Street

• San Katong Laksa
  29B Lorong Liput Holland Village

Recipe

FIRST MAKE THE SPICE PASTE (days before is fine)

• 3 long fat stalks of lemon grass, mincing only their tender hearts and reserving the rest of the stalks for another use
• 4 hot red chilies, discarding the stem and as many seeds as you wish to reduce the fire of the paste
• 4 slices of galangal (substitute ginger if you can't find this fresh)
• thumb-size lump of ginger
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste
• 3 shallots, peeled and chopped
• 3 large cloves garlic
• 4 Tablespoons peanut oil
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 cup tamarind paste

Put the minced lemon grass hearts, chilies, galangal/ginger, shrimp paste, shallots, garlic, and oil in a blender and liquify it into a speckled mush. Add the cilantro, turmeric, sugar, and tamarind paste and blend at the highest speed until it is a colorful but uniform paste. Scoop into a glass jar (it will stain plastic) and refrigerate until you're ready to use.

NOW GET THE NOODLES AND CHICKEN READY:

• 1/2 pound noodles (thick or thin rice, wheat, or beanthread noodles are fine--rice noodles are most traditional)
• 4 cups cooked chicken

Cook the noodles according to package directions, rinse, and set aside. Cut the chicken in bitesize juicy cubes

THEN MAKE THE GRAVY

• 2 Tablespoons peanut oil
• prepared spice paste (it's about a cup)
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
• 1/4 cup Asian basil (laksa leaf), chopped
• 1/4 cup nam pla (or other fish sauce)
• 1 can coconut milk (13.5 fl. ounces/400 ml.)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat, then stir in the paste--and keep stirring until it is a little browned (don't burn!), about 3 minutes. Pour in the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat, stir in herbs and fish sauce, and simmer for 5 minutes. When you're ready to begin assembly, stir in the coconut milk and bring to a simmer.

GET THE GARNISHES READY (your choice how many)

• crisp bean sprouts
• Asian basil
• sambal or garlic-chili hot sauce
• preserved carrots
• julienne cucumber

TIME FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY!

1. Divide the noodles among the large bowls.
2. Arrange the chicken over the noodles
3. Pour the gravy over all
4. Either arrange garnishes on top or pass them separately