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Curried fish head comes with not one, but two tales attached to it. One tells of Mr Gomez, an Indian cook working in Singapore half a century ago, who decided to cook up the fish heads that were then usually thrown away. Fish-head dishes are rare in India, so this story supports the contention that fish head curry is uniquely Singaporean. However, the other story is that Punjab Regiments posted to Singapore during colonial days brought their fish head recipes with them. And that, says the Indian chef who told us this, is that!

Whichever story is true, we can be thankful that someone came up with this mouth-watering creation. Large heads bearing a surprising amount of meaty morsels, from cheeks to lips to eyes (connoisseurs aim straight for these), are simmered in a spicy, intensely red gravy with succulent okra, tomatoes and eggplant, all eaten with plenty of fluffy rice as a foil for the tongue-tingling sauce.

Recommended

o Gayatri Restaurant

One of the best restaurants for fish head curry in Little India, this stylishly-outfitted modern Indian restaurant also has wonderful-tasting fried cuttlefish.

19 Race Course Road, Telephone: (65) 6291 1011

o Lin Heng Snack Bar

An unassuming café open for lunch only. Excellent Chinese-style fish head curry, with a thick, rich gravy, succulent vegetables and very fresh fish.

#01-18, Sultan Plaza, 100 Jalan Sultan

o Muthu’s Curry

Spicy and satisfying - one of the all-time fish head curry greats.

72-78 Race Course Road, Telephone: (65) 6392 1722

o Samy's Curry Restaurant

Located at the hip Dempsey Road

Block 25 Dempsey Road, Civil Service Club, Telephone : (65) 6472 2080

Katong Village, 86 East Coast Road, Telephone : (65) 6345 1726

o The Banana Leaf Apolo

Its signature dish is Fish Head Curry!

56 Race Course Road, Telephone : (65) 6293 8682

#01-32 Little India Arcade, 48 Serangoon Road, Telephone : (65) 6297 1595

Recipe

Ingredients
1 whole fish head, cut into 2 or 600g fish steaks
1 tbl mixed curry seeds for fish curry (optional)
10g ginger, thinly shredded
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 onions thinly sliced
5 tbl fish curry powder made into a paste with 1 /4 to 1 /2 cup water
300g lady’s fingers
3 tomatoes, quartered
6 red chilli, slit into half lengthwise
6 green chilli, slit into half lengthwise
2 to 3 sprigs curry leaves
1 /2 to 1 tsp salt
1 tbl sugar
1 tbl tamarind mixed with 1 /2 cup water
1 cup coconut milk from a packet
5 tbl sunflower oil

Fish Curry Powder
250g coriander powder
60g cumin powder
150g chilli powder
30g turmeric powder
20g black pepper powder
10g funegreek powder

Method
Wash the fish head or fish steaks and pat dry. Steam the salmon fish head till just cooked. Keep aside. Heat oil in a wok or saucepan, add the curry seeds and ginger and stir fry over high heat for two to three minutes till the seeds pop. Add garlic and stir fry till fragrant. Add the fish curry paste and stir fry till fragrant and cooked. Add the onions and stir fry briefly for about one minute. Put in half of the coconut milk and bring to the boil before adding the remaining coconut milk and tamarind juice. Add the lady’s fingers, tomatoes, red chilli, green chilli, curry leaves, salt and sugar. When you are ready to serve, add the steamed salmon fish head and simmer gently for about five to eight minutes till the fish is hot and well cooked. You may add more liquid if there is not enough gravy. Serve.

Definitely at the top of overseas Singaporeans’ list of most-missed dishes. Laksa plays off smooth, rice noodles against rich, velvety gravy of coconut milk, spices, dried shrimp and chilli, with toppings of fresh prawns, cockles, and sliced fishcake. So entrenched is this Peranakan classic in local cuisine, that the Malay daun kesum leaves that garnish it have the English nickname – laksa leaf! 

Perhaps the most famous version was sold in the Katong (East Coast) area more than 50 years ago by a hawker nicknamed ‘Janggot’, who learnt how to cook laksa from Peranakan cooks – and who subsequently married the daughter of one of his Peranakan customers! In those days, street hawkers doled out laksa served in porcelain bowls from carts they pushed along the road. Currently, several Katong eateries tout their laksa as being closest to the original, but only one has registered the name “Katong Laksa” as a trademark.

Recommended

• Tong Jimian
  Not too rich, with very ‘drinkable’ gravy.
  #01-100 Golden Mile Food Centre, 505 Beach Road

• Sungei Road Laksa
  A very traditional style of Iaksa, the fragrant gravy is made with fresh coconut milk.
  #01-100, BIk 27 Jalan Berseh

• 328 Katong Laksa
  The Katong style of laksa has very thick, ‘coconutty’ gravy — aromatic and very filling.
  Branches at 216 and 51 East Coast Road

• Chatterbox
  Famous for its chicken rice, the Laksa isn't too bad either.
  333 Orchard Road, Meritus Mandarin Hotel, Telephone : (65) 6831 6291

• Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa
  #02-67 Hong Lim market & Food Centre. Block 531A Upper Cross Street

• San Katong Laksa
  29B Lorong Liput Holland Village

Recipe

FIRST MAKE THE SPICE PASTE (days before is fine)

• 3 long fat stalks of lemon grass, mincing only their tender hearts and reserving the rest of the stalks for another use
• 4 hot red chilies, discarding the stem and as many seeds as you wish to reduce the fire of the paste
• 4 slices of galangal (substitute ginger if you can't find this fresh)
• thumb-size lump of ginger
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste
• 3 shallots, peeled and chopped
• 3 large cloves garlic
• 4 Tablespoons peanut oil
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 cup tamarind paste

Put the minced lemon grass hearts, chilies, galangal/ginger, shrimp paste, shallots, garlic, and oil in a blender and liquify it into a speckled mush. Add the cilantro, turmeric, sugar, and tamarind paste and blend at the highest speed until it is a colorful but uniform paste. Scoop into a glass jar (it will stain plastic) and refrigerate until you're ready to use.

NOW GET THE NOODLES AND CHICKEN READY:

• 1/2 pound noodles (thick or thin rice, wheat, or beanthread noodles are fine--rice noodles are most traditional)
• 4 cups cooked chicken

Cook the noodles according to package directions, rinse, and set aside. Cut the chicken in bitesize juicy cubes

THEN MAKE THE GRAVY

• 2 Tablespoons peanut oil
• prepared spice paste (it's about a cup)
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
• 1/4 cup Asian basil (laksa leaf), chopped
• 1/4 cup nam pla (or other fish sauce)
• 1 can coconut milk (13.5 fl. ounces/400 ml.)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat, then stir in the paste--and keep stirring until it is a little browned (don't burn!), about 3 minutes. Pour in the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat, stir in herbs and fish sauce, and simmer for 5 minutes. When you're ready to begin assembly, stir in the coconut milk and bring to a simmer.

GET THE GARNISHES READY (your choice how many)

• crisp bean sprouts
• Asian basil
• sambal or garlic-chili hot sauce
• preserved carrots
• julienne cucumber

TIME FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY!

1. Divide the noodles among the large bowls.
2. Arrange the chicken over the noodles
3. Pour the gravy over all
4. Either arrange garnishes on top or pass them separately